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Monday, 7 February 2011

Adam Kimmel AW11: Backstage

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Last season, Style.com boldly stated that the Adam Kimmel SS11 collection wouldn't be able to top what had gone before it. There were elements of truth - the George Condo AW10 collection was so popular that it seemed to be featured in every magazine and blog, leading to what was reported as the most commercially successful collection to date. However, if this season is anything to go by the New York based menswear brand may have just managed to outdo themselves.

Working alongside artist Dan Attoe, Kimmel showed a range of clothing which built upon classic pieces (moleskin /workcoat / overalls) and added new staples in the form of clever reverable outerwear (my personal favourite being the green peacoat to moleskin number). This seasons rural American inspiration lead to the highest quality I've ever seen from Kimmel. As an admirer of classic smart looks I was quite impressed with the range of blazers and smart pants - particularly the double breasted dinner suit (styled under the neon orange overcoat) made with the softest woven fabrics. As well as this, accessories were stronger than ever. Bags created in collaboration with Mismo were solidly crafted from heavy duty canvas and sturdy leather (I ordered the navy and brown document bag) and a range of woven ties and printed silk scarves, rounded the collection well.

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Styling the models before the presentation began, there was an eerie calm not reflective of the usual mania that I've experienced backstage at Fashion Week. Models were dressed with ease, clothes were sorted into perfect order, taxis arrived on time. It's always interesting to see the hidden side of fashion as it reveals true nature of the people who run the business. It's no surprise then that the practical designs and well-orchistrated presentation is the result of a team of people who manage the business well and truely believe in the product they create.

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After dressing the models and preparing for the presentation, the team made their way over to the gallery which would later that evening hold some of the most interesting and influential people in the art world. One short film and a rural installation later, and the presentation was ready to ensue...