Moving from the art presentations he has now become known for, this season Adam Kimmel moved into the world of the fashion show. It's a tricky tactic, not only is the production effort dramatically increased, but it presents his clothing in a new arena beside "show" designers like Damir Doma or Viktor & Rolf for example. The move paid off.
Entering the Botanique Geologie through a rose garden, being handed a glass of champagne and greeted by waitors in sharp attire, showed the fashion world (including style royalty Suzy Menkes, Kanye, Tim Blanks, Diane Pernet...etc) who's boss. Adam Kimmel is now a major player who means business in the world of fashion. Luckily, the intellectual quirks that came along with his presentations weren't missing though, as murials and huge crystals from the daytime exhibits remained and gave the environment an ethereal quality. As well as this, the show opened with mystical waves footage inspired by Robert Longo and the eternally eerie "The Lonely Sea" - taking us deeper into the subversive mind of Kimmel.
This seasons theme was surfing - but knowing the brand, it wasn't a surprise that there was a twist. Described by Kimmel as "dark surfing" the clothing reflects the way genuine surf subcultures are now chosing to dress. No longer are the prints bright and tacky, but hawaiian shirts are overdyed with black and light fabric pants use dusky shades which are made for the bad-boy in all of us. The use of real surfers & skaters in this collection was also very clever. Not only does it give the show credibility and present the clothing as wearable to real people, but at the end all the models rushed to make orders for the clothes. Perhaps a testiment to the likability of the clothing - Kimmel clearly knows his audience.
Last season I ordered a few (too many!) items from the collection myself and this season will be no different. I'm a sucker for a good suit and the tailoring in this collection is perfect. The light linen suits are elegant but relaxed and the fluid khaki shirt (the fabric's known as ocean breeze) reminds me of Morrissey new romantic style that I love.
Leaving the show I felt optimistic and refreshed. On the landing of the museum, a plaid-clad Tim Blanks was enthusiastically interviewing Adam, who just so happened to be wearing a similar print. Their welcoming embrace and matching plaids made for a great shot - which will be posted soon as "backstage" photos.