Wednesday, 1 July 2015

100 Beards is Three





Three years ago today I started a project which grew into something far beyond anything I could have imagined. On July 1st 2012 I set myself a challenge of finding and photographing a new bearded man every day for 100 days. Back then, the challange was in fact quite challenging, as the number of men with beards has exponentially grown since. At the time, I wanted to start a project to document a trend and liked the idea of beards because it was more about the individual then an aquisition. During the process I ended up meeting guys who are now my best mates, like Terry and Chris from Sartorial 7, and discovering talent on the verdge of their big break: Ricki Hall and Chris John Millington to name the obvious ones.

By day 50 of the project, the men I stopped to photograph were referencing my blog, using it as inspiration and saying they were already fans. It was a strange and exciting time. By the end of the 100 Days I'd been offered exhibitions in London, Edinburgh and Austria, and a book deal, which came together by December of that year. One hell of a rollercoaster ride!

In this short period of time we've come full circle. At first people told me I was mad for chosing such a small niche to shoot. By the end of that year the rise of the beard has reached epic proportions and by summer 2013 I couldn't walk down a single street of London without seeing at least 5 men attempting to become more hirsute. Of course like any trend, the press are keen to call it's demise first and by 2014 "peak beard" had arrived and we were told to go clean shaven ASAP. I'm not sure if that demand has been answered fully yet but I've certainly seen a shift in the landscape. For the men who spent months growing and grooming their facial hair, this was not a trend but a transition in style. Others may have shaved since but for most of the men I met, growing a beard was a transformative experience in many ways. I'm proud to have documented a time which saw mascilinity celebrated. Since that first 100 days I photographed bearded men wherever I travelled and the result is my book '100 Beards' which has the original 100 portraits plus 100 from Miami, Berlin, Milan, Paris, New York and many other cities around the world. Whether it's a "trend" that's "over" or not has no importance, for me it's about the situation, the time and the individual captured in that moment.

You can still order copies of the book online here at 100Beards.com.


Tuesday, 30 June 2015

Models Off Duty: Vogue Hommes


After a full season of menswear shows I'm happy to be back home in London. All my photos from London, Pitti, Milan and Paris are now live on the Vogue Hommes website, and today a special feature on Models Off Duty has just launched. Check it out on Vogue.fr now.

Friday, 26 June 2015

GarconJon meets Tony Thornburg: Model Off Duty



Each season during fashion week there's a model that stands out for me. It me be the shows they booked or simply the clothes they wore when exiting a show but someone usually stands out. In Milan it was Tony Thornberg for me as his style is always impeccible, but more importantly, distinctly his own. I sat down with the softly spoken chap to chat about his hometown of Hawaii and life as a model, only to discover a man wise beyond his 27 years.

Tony Thornburg, model with Elite Milan

Where did you grow up and where do you live now? I grew up in Hawaii in the island of Niʻihau. We lived in the west side in a very quiet neighbourhood and in the last 3 or 4 years I’ve been living in Europe, mainly Zurich, Switzerland.

That’s an unusual base for working the fashion industry. How did you end up there? My girlfriend is Swiss. We met while working in Hong Kong and we happened to be with the same agency. I had already planned that my next trip would be for the shows in Milan so decided let’s give it 3 months and that turned to 6, then a year and I am still there today. We’ll see how much longer I’ll be there.

I’ve never been to Zurich, what do you like about the city? It’s very private and feels like a little escape from the main hustle and bustle of the cities I work in. The city itself is a little cold and the people can be difficult to break through and make friends with but that benefits me as when I want to get away from it all I can just go home and really relax.

I can imagine there’s no greater contrast that Zurich and Hawaii. What do miss most about home? Yes there are huge differences. Of course my family and friends are top of the list. I also miss the most beautiful sunsets in the world. As I grew up in Hawaii I always resented the fact that I was so far away from everything and I had big dreams that couldn’t be achieved while I was there. As I started to travel the world I realised the magic of what it means to be of far away in such a small place in the middle of the pacific ocean. I started to realise how much I took it for granted and have learned to appreciate my own culture.

When you were young what did you want to be as a grown up? I used to play a lot of video games and drew a lot. Animated characters really captivated me. When I was about 12 years old I had no idea of who I wanted to be but before I fell asleep every night I watched television. At around 11pm a show used to come on every night called ‘Fashion Trends’ and it was a loop for hours of shows from Europe. I would watch it until I fell asleep and though to myself “these people going down the catwalk look powerful and successful like the characters in my games. Something really drew me to that and as I got older I became more and more drawn to that. Being Asian I wasn’t so popular when I began modelling but something kept pushing me to pursue that route. It took a while until the industry was ready for me but as I stuck around the industry began to evolve. One season I was in Milan and I got called to the Armani casting and honestly thought how odd it was. My look isn’t typical for the brand but I knew It was a once in a lifetime opportunity. I went to the casting and left feeling like it was a waste of time but within a matter of days I got a call saying that Amani wants you to be the face for his brand. I was blown away and I’ll never forget that feeling.

Was that your big break then? Oh yes, most definitely. After that campaign was released things just snowballed. Jobs just consistently kept coming in and it was so lovely as I’d been travelling, saving up, going broke and struggling for nearly 5 years and it felt like everything had come together. As a model nearly all expenses come out of your own pocket until you break through and that was the point I got the understanding of what it is to be a professional in the industry when you finally get to a point when you feel like you’re appreciated. It was a wonderful moment but I made sure to stay humble and remember that it doesn’t make me any better. I’m still just a man and I take that experience as one of the best lessons in my life. I’m so excited to transition into becoming a real man. It’s such a funny thing to look back over my body of work and see how much I’ve grown. I looked so young at the beginning and the years and flown by.

That’s such an interesting path, what advice would you give someone else wanting to become a model? I meet a lot of people who ask me that. Persistence and discipline are probably the two greatest factors to success. There are stories we all hear on television who just got scouted on the street and a few months later ‘Boom’ there they are on a billboard at Times Square. It doesn’t really work like that. A lot of my friends have been in the industry for years, trying and trying until they “make it.” I have one friend who told me recently that he’d been struggling for 7 years with the biggest job he’d ever had in that whole time paid him $500. One day, out of the blue, he booked a massive job with an international brand and his whole life turned around. You have to remember patience is key.

With that patience in mind, how would you describe yourself in 5 words? Take the time to feel. I like to think that modelling is not just about being an image of success, it’s about being a real role model. I want to communicate something more than just clothing that looks good. We’re lacking role models like Muhammad Ali and Michael Jordan in todays culture.

Are there any role models you look to? A lot of people may laugh but truly Arnold Schwarzenegger. He was the stereotype of a massive muscle man as an action hero for so many years but when you look at what he’s been able to achieve it’s incredible. He started in a small country far from Hollywood and went on to become a superstar actor, then a successful politician. He’s now a motivational speaker and I love that transition.

On that note, leave us with some words of wisdom. Don’t forget where you came from. You’re never too good for anything. When you have the opportunity to help someone, do it. Helping and sharing give the greatest feeling possible.






Thursday, 25 June 2015

Italian in Paris: Rue Balzac, Paris


An Italian blogger photographed on the streets of Paris outside the Valentino show for Vogue Hommes.

Light and Curly: Rue Berryer, Paris


Model off duty outside the Valentino show at Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild during Paris Fashion Week.

Tuxedo Morph: Théâtre du Chatelet, Paris


Photographed for Vogues Hommes outside the shows at Paris Fashion Week.

GarconJon meets Samuel Bietenhader: Model Off Duty

Samuel Bietenhader, model with 3M Models.

When you were a wee boy, what did you want to be when you grew up? I wanted to be a scientist. With music and art, you're famous but just for your generation. However with science, if you're able to find a cure for AIDs then you'll be a legend for generations to come. It's more rewarding for me. As a scientist you're working for the future which is visionary.

When did that dream change? It ended when I started studying biology but the dream changed earlier even because I wanted to do so many things. Dancing, acting, art, biology, chemistry were all on my horizon. In high school, I wasn't great with discipline and it didn't capture me enough to work 8 hours a day studying the stuff.

I'm guessing disciplined isn't a good word to sum you up. Describe yourself in 5 words. Philosophical, broken sometimes, philanthropist and chaotic. I love the idea of shared love and that we are all ‘one’.

What's your horoscope? I'm the virgin, a Virgo. The papers always tell me something different about my sign. Everyone thinks every generic statement could fit them so I don't pay too much attention, like "be positive and you'll get positivity." It's nothing new.

How did you begin modelling? A few years ago I was living at home in Zurich, sucking on my mum's money and not doing anything productive. It spiralled until I saw an advert on my bank's website looking for "Stuttgart Individuals" to be models for a new campaign. It seemed silly because it's a corporate bank trying to be cool and young. We had to do a catwalk on the seaside in front of a huge group of people which was quite embarrassing. There was a really interesting shoot we did up high on a construction site though. After that project I got into modelling full time.

What's been your highlight so far? You've only been modelling for a year now, right? Yes. My highlight is more like a life lesson though: "don't do modelling". A few months ago I had a kind of a nervous breakdown. It was very difficult for me and made me re-evaluate how I look at life. I really saw things in my head that shocked me. I asked myself 'what will I be doing at 35' wondering if I'll still have energy for all this. You could be doing modelling for 10 years from 20 to 30 and these are the years of highest energy. A lot of models I see are so stuck up in the fame they get but it's all fake and built on nothing. So they have good genes but that's not created through skill or hard work.

Why are you still modelling if you find it so challenging? Well, I do like it a lot when I'm shooting. It's more morally and mentally a problem. I want to go back to study sound design - another strange decision. I thought about going back to biology but I don't think that'll work. With sound design you work a lot electronically, for example making jingles for companies. If you're lucky you'd be creating the sounds for light sabres in Star Wars and become a DJ.

Where do you see yourself in 10 years time? It's hard to answer that question in your twenties. Six months ago I would have said, finish with studying biology. Now it's changed as I think I've found my soul mate. She's a super nice girl and we have a unified mind. Not in the typical Hollywood love way, we recognise our differences and flourish with them. In a decade I would see myself having a job which would allow me to have a family with this woman. I guess romantic would have to be added to one of my 5 words.

That's a positive note to end on! Leave us with some words on wisdom. Nice, I like that question and it's also the hardest as life keeps fucking you over. I tend to have a 'go with the flow' mentality. My life lesson would be "when you see a person you don't like, imagine him being your lover". I have a philosophical mind telling me to "tell him this or that, something deep" but at one point you go down so deep that it's too dark to come back out. I guess my other lesson would be not to philosophise too hardcore in life.










Wednesday, 24 June 2015

Ouigi Theodore: Via Savona, Milan


Ouigi Theodore, founder of menswear mecca Brooklyn Circus, photographed outside the menswear shows in Milan. See the detail shot below.

Black Brows: Via Valtellina, Milan


Model off duty photographed outside the Gucci show in Milan.